Tuesday, June 30, 2015

Concentric Ring Chocolate Bar

Lime chocolate bar / blood orange chocolate bar / lemon chocolate bar. All milk chocolate with citrus peels. 

Wednesday, June 17, 2015

Half-Sphere Chocolate Bar

This is a 2.5 inch sphere chocolate bar. Filled with raspberry pate de fruit, pistachio praline and pistachio ganache. 

Thursday, June 11, 2015

Hominy as an Ingredient for Confections

This bar was made by making a smooth purée of fresh cooked hominy and then mixed with milk chocolate and a little heavy cream. The bottom layer is a praline made with corn nuts and sugar, as you would with an almond praline but using salted corn nuts. This adds a crunchy texture and salt to this otherwise sweet bar. The whole piece is enrobed in dark chocolate where a corn husk was applied to its surface while it was crystallizing so that it would take on its look and feel. I love using these ingredients in this way. 

Thursday, May 28, 2015

Long time no see

As I write these lines I realize that it has been close to three years since I last posted on The Quenelle. Between then and now much has happened. The highlights being that I no longer am an instructor at The Culinary Institute of America, I have been the head chef at Modernist Cuisine working on a multi-volume book about bread since January of 2014. I also opened and proceeded to close a wonderful chocolate shop that I had named Hudson Chocolates. I closed because the opportunity to work at Modernist Cuisine comes once in a lifetime and I would have been foolish not to accept it. I can always open a chocolate shop later.

I will try my best to come back to posting here.

Wednesday, November 28, 2012

Friday, October 12, 2012


This is basically a liquid chocolate base (water, chocolate, sugar, cocoa powder) gelled with agar and gelatin, then pureed very smooth, like a fluid gel. We put it in the whipper and let it get hot in the circulator (70 C) and then we put two charges of NO2 in the whipper. We keep the whipper in the hot circulating water bath (Polyscience), taking advantage of the hysteresis of agar (which means that if it got hotter than 85 C it will melt down again; colder and it will be too firm and you couldn't force the bubbles from NO2 into it, so this is why precise temperature control was so important) but in the circulating bath we can keep it hot AND gelled at a constant temperature. Once we pour the whipped hot chocolate into a bowl we coat the surface with turbinado sugar and caramelize it with a torch. We hit the surface with a quick blast of cold air from a cold-spray can to harden the sugar, and there you have it, whipped hot chocolate creme brulee. So good you can't imagine.