Wednesday, August 10, 2011

New Eclair



I have been wanting to put eclairs back on my menu for the longest time. This after I realized two things: one, I love to eat eclairs (it is one of my favorite desserts, ever, especially coffee eclairs), and two, they are just beautiful to make and to look at (and soon after, eat). This particular eclair is filled with a passion fruit curd and milk chocolate pastry cream (milk chocolate and passion fruit is a great flavor mix: sweet balanced with tart). The glaze is pouring fondant in three varieties: plain, passion fruit and milk chocolate, reflecting the filling flavors. This technique for glazing was developed by Chef Christophe Adam, formerly of Fauchon in Paris, now soon to open his own shop (in Paris as well... 'how you say ..."stage"'?). I have been wrecking my trying to figure out how he does it for years with zero success, until recently, my good friend Olivier Fernandez, director of the EPGB in Barcelona showed me a video of Chef Adam glazing an eclair in this way. It is really not easy at all, practice, as in all we do, is key to obtain successful results. It took me a few dozen tries before I got it right, but I believe it is worth the trouble. So glazing is hard, but not as hard as making a perfect tubular eclair. Follow this link to the recipe for pate a choux that has taken me five years to perfect. As for the glazing, well, I can't help you with that yet. Maybe I will put a video together of the method, but for now, work on that choux first and then we'll discuss glazing.

14 comments:

  1. I will keep up my side and work on the choux, but I would love to know how to do that glaze. Even if I couldn't re-create it myself, I have been wondering for years how it is done.

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  2. Wow, I love this post. I love the detailed recipe but was wondering if you had any tips on baking in a convection oven. I assume it is a no go, don't even try answer...but I thought I would check. I have seen 1-2-3 dough or sucree dough rolled thin and placed on top. Do you find this to be an extra step? I really appriciate your blog, your perfection and your generosity.

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  3. Chef, would love to see how the glazing is done. Even if I can never get it to perfection, I would love to see you demo it. You know, just to know. But you're right. I'm going to work on this choux as soon as I get the change. Thank you for you generosity.

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  4. I realize this i way OT but i'm kind of desperate here.

    I'm in need of a foolproof chocolate or chocolate&hazelnut flourless cake.

    Does The Modern Cafe have one?

    Thanks in advance!

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  5. NVR, follow this link: http://www.scribd.com/doc/62278392/Flourlesss-Chocolate-Sponge-Cake-sheet

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  6. My way to say thank you:
    I'll be buying the Modern Cafe anyway!
    Along with Frozen desserts and your forthcoming tome.

    Priceles generousity from you.

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  7. Hi Francisco,

    This is a long shot, but I hope I can reach out to you through your blog. I own a small ice cream company in Chicago called Nice Cream and we are in trouble!! The state of ill. is forcing us to buy a $40,000 pasteurizer and has already shut down our business.

    You can read about the situation here: http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2011-08-05/news/chi-local-ice-cream-makers-could-be-shut-down-by-state-20110805_1_kris-swanberg-nice-cream-strawberry-syrup

    I am throwing a hail mary here, hoping you might be able to help since you are an expert in the science of such things. I'm a big fan of our book. You can contact me at nicecream@me.com if you would be willing to help. Thanks so much!!!

    Kris Swanberg

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  8. Wow awesome that glaze is so attractive! I've looked at the photo half a dozen times. There's no way i could glaze that nicely directly on an eclair. Do you make the design on acetate strips freeze them and flip them on top?

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  9. Stumbled upon your site and was amazed by your amazing creations ! Great job in making a perfect tubular eclair. I really admired Chef Christophe Adam and thanks for the update regarding his opening his own shop soon. I got his latest Eclair's book and can't wait to try it out.

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  10. Stumbled upon your site too while looking for croissant tips. Ended up getting your Modern Cafe book aside from making regular visits to your site. Many many thanks for the post. Quite surprised my first crack at the recipe was successful considering the humid and rainy conditions in this part of Asia. Now to figure out how to glaze 'em perfectly as well... :-) Your dedication and willingness to share are an inspiration! Cheers, Evelyn

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  11. beautiful eclair!

    here is a video that gives a little direction on how the glazing is done. the stripes are a little different technique but the tool/idea is the same.

    http://www.christopheadam.com/eclairs/eclair-marmiton-org/

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  12. Thanks for the idea. Great site

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  13. A fantastic looking eclair- I take it you dip it in the passion fruit fondant, then use two paper cones to do plain and chocolate stripes before smoothing the edges with a finger?

    So much work, but a great result. Btw, a reat admirer of the Modern Café.

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  14. I can not wait to see how you would make this look!

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