Wednesday, August 10, 2011

New Eclair



I have been wanting to put eclairs back on my menu for the longest time. This after I realized two things: one, I love to eat eclairs (it is one of my favorite desserts, ever, especially coffee eclairs), and two, they are just beautiful to make and to look at (and soon after, eat). This particular eclair is filled with a passion fruit curd and milk chocolate pastry cream (milk chocolate and passion fruit is a great flavor mix: sweet balanced with tart). The glaze is pouring fondant in three varieties: plain, passion fruit and milk chocolate, reflecting the filling flavors. This technique for glazing was developed by Chef Christophe Adam, formerly of Fauchon in Paris, now soon to open his own shop (in Paris as well... 'how you say ..."stage"'?). I have been wrecking my trying to figure out how he does it for years with zero success, until recently, my good friend Olivier Fernandez, director of the EPGB in Barcelona showed me a video of Chef Adam glazing an eclair in this way. It is really not easy at all, practice, as in all we do, is key to obtain successful results. It took me a few dozen tries before I got it right, but I believe it is worth the trouble. So glazing is hard, but not as hard as making a perfect tubular eclair. Follow this link to the recipe for pate a choux that has taken me five years to perfect. As for the glazing, well, I can't help you with that yet. Maybe I will put a video together of the method, but for now, work on that choux first and then we'll discuss glazing.