Tuesday, October 27, 2015


Affogato. Starch plays a key role in this dessert. The ice cream is made from my recipe for pastry cream. It is frozen and sheared in a pacojet, then re hardened in a silicone mold, released, coated in turbinado sugar which is then melted with a torch. The importance of the role of starch is that starch is thermo-irreversible, so once it gels it cannot be melted again. This is why one can blast this ice cream with a flame and it won't melt. A layer of caramelized sugar on ice cream such as this is quite unusual. I started working on an ice cream Crème brûlée years ago but I think this is pretty much locked in now. The ice cream sits on a foam made with espresso, inulin and sugar. Insulin is quite new to me. My friend Matthias Mittermeier introduced me to it when I was in Germany last September. Inulin is a starch that comes from chicory root. It has foaming properties once hydrated. What appears to be a simple dessert is actually quite complex. Photo taken @modcuisine 

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