Thursday, July 28, 2016

Burnt Bread Bar

I first realized that burnt things could actually contribute pleasant flavors to other foods when I tasted a burnt milk ice cream when I was a child. I still remember how odd but delicious it was. It clearly had to have started as a mistake where someone figured they may as well make the ice cream anyway after the milk had scorched in the pot rather than throw it away. Burnt bread has a very deep and concentrated Maillard reaction which unravels when steeped in heavy cream to make a ganache. 

Friday, July 22, 2016

Frozen Landscape

Pistachio ice cream, saffron ice cream, blood orange sorbet, rice milk sorbet. Ice cream and / or sorbet alone is one of my favorite desserts. Sometimes as pastry chefs we forget that ours is the very last course and the people we serve are not hungry anymore and a large desserts is likely to be the last thing they want. Frozen desserts fit the bill perfectly. #theelementsofdessert page 182

Saturday, July 16, 2016

Œufs a la Neige part 2

More versions of Œfs á la Neige, a light and just barely sweet permanent cooked egg foam, in this case filled with apple butter (Granny Smith apples cooked long and slow with butter, cinnamon, brown sugar and vanilla beans. Leaves are white chocolate brushed with white cocoa butter. There's something beautiful to me about a pure white dessert. 

Sunday, July 10, 2016

River Rock

Made with my absolute favorite chocolate cake (blackout chocolate cake, recipe in my book, The Elements of Dessert, Wiley, 2012) baked in a @silikomartprofessional mold. It is then hollowed out (crumbs can be saved and dehydrated for other uses) filled with a lemon curd sphere and a praline cream. The whole thing is airbrushed with white cocoa butter. The sauce is a very lightly gelled dark chocolate sauce (@johnnyiuzzini  Recipe plus 1 sheet of gelatin) is frozen in a silicone mold then unmolded and thawed on the plate, which is sped up with the help of a heat gun. The nibs are candied cocoa nibs from @felchlinswitzerland align with the chocolate profile of this dessert but also add texture. Plain cocoa nibs are not something I could get into as is, except for making chocolate. 

Thursday, July 7, 2016

Coconut - Lime Mousse

The idea was to produce a dessert that mimicked a coconut without it being too obvious. I wanted subtle visual cues. The mold I used is typically for oval domes, and when they are attached to each other they produce this particular shape which I found very attractive and ideal to represent the coconut in a slightly abstract way. The surface is scraped with a wire bristle brush to further resemble the skin of the coconut. The dot is to resemble the “eyes” coconuts have; I did dis by warm up a metal rod 5mm diameter and then applying it to the surface. The rings are made of coconut paper which are flexible and white when raw but turn a deep amber brown when they are baked. The concentric circles give the dessert more volume but also a very clean and precise look. These flavors are some of my favorites together.
 Recipe in "so good.. #16"

Wednesday, July 6, 2016

Œfs á la Neige

I am really thrilled with this dessert because what is extremely important was that I was able to create a permanent egg foam that wasn’t as sweet as a traditional meringue, and is not cooked in any traditional form. Typically egg meringues are very sweet as they are more sugar than egg whites, but this is only about 1/3 sugar. It is made as an Italian meringue in which we add cooked sugar (which helps to pasteurize the egg whites) to the foamed egg whites and we add gelatin to it (which is what stabilizes the foam permanently when it cools down in refrigeration). It is a revolutionary way to make permanent egg foams. The second important factor is that there are many versions of desserts that look like an egg but are something else. This one is very different from any other version; the core which is simply a frozen apricot puree, is placed into the foam before the foam sets. As it is surrounded by the gelatin in the egg white foam, the gelled foam serves to keep the apricot puree from seeping out. The perfectly cut feathers sharpen the design and make this a visually arresting dessert.